Ensure laser is pointing at the floor. Place the two batteries provided in the space behind the laser. Negative terminal of batteries to connect with laser spring. Adjusting the wheel on the swingarm is often extremely inaccurate as most swing arms are constructed using fabricated components. The Laser Monkey however ensures unrivalled accuracy, as a laser is sent directly down the centre of the chain or belt, enabling precise alignment.

The missing link: Best motorcycle chain tools | MCN

Lift the laser head to point at the furthest visible point of the chain/belt towards the engine. Adjust the wheel alignment until the laser is showing at the centre point of the chain/belt. Your wheel will then be accurately aligned.

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There are several types of chain depending on the design of the links themselves and there are also different types of links that are designed to allow the chain to be replaced. Widen the arms on the Laser Monkey outwards by twisting the adjuster to allow enough space to fit over your chain or belt. It's true that if the front wheel is not pointing straight ahead the method will produce the results Kiwi described. But if the bike was built in proper alignment from the factory the method described will be extremely close. The index card doesn't suppress anything that I can see. It's just an easy way to line up the front wheel with the long axis of the frame. If you can come up with a better way to do it, then use that method before taking the measurements between the rods.

Sealey Motorcycle Chain Alignment Tool - MS005 - Demon Tweeks

The vast majority of motorcycles use a chain to carry drive from the output of the gearbox to the rear wheel. Sure, there are shaft-driven bikes – notably BMWs – as well as belt-driven examples but the humble chain is by far the easiest and most reliable when it comes to moving torque to the rear wheel. The perfectly positioned motorcycle rear wheel axle ensures optimized driving dynamics, more safety and more driving pleasure. When the front wheel is pointing straight ahead, use a tape measure placed near the outer end of the rods to measure the distance from one rod to the other. When they're the same, your wheels are aligned. You're actually measuring the parallelism of the front and rear axles, but in practice that is the same thing as measuring the alignment of the front and rear wheels.The Profi CAT lights up over the entire lower part of the chain. So you use a long distance to determine the short distance of the axis! Great bit of kit. Together with the chain monkey makes adjusting the chain on my 2009 GSXR-1000 literally a 30 sec job, and no guess work!”– Rob

Motorcycle Chain Tools | Demon Tweeks

The chain is meticulously cleaned/lubed every 250km-500km. Most cars leave me for dead at the lights so the chain should still be in its infancy. Point the laser down to the closest part of the chain/belt and turn on. The laser should appear in the centre of the chain link or belt. If not centralised initially, adjust positioning to centralise the laser. The laser light is visible in a line over the entire chain length and enables a simple and fast visualisation. For belt drive, two belt markings (included in the scope of delivery) are attached to the toothed belt. The SE-CAT-Line is ingeniously suitable for this application, because both belt markings can be illuminated at the same time and thus it is visible if the rear wheel axle is correctly positioned. Step 2: Turn the laser on and face towards the closet part of the chain or belt. Ensure the laser is centralised. When the front wheel is pointing straight ahead, use a tape measure placed near the outer end of the rods to measure the distance from one rod to the other. When they're the same, your wheels are aligned. You're actually measuring the parallelism of the front and rear axles, but if the front wheel is in fact aligned with the long axis of the bike frame it's the same thing as measuring the alignment of the front and rear wheels.I tried the long straightedge method (one guy used long flourescent light tubes), the string method ( SportRyder's Wheel Alignment Method), and the chain alignment tool method (see the MotionPro tool) . The first two are an incredible pain in the rear, and the alignment tools are difficult to visually assess if you're getting the chain truly aligned. Furthermore, the string and straightedge methods simply aren't practical on my bike -- and others -- because either the side stand or the center stand get in the way.