Leave the marinade for at least an hour - it's worth it as the fish really does pick up the flavour. It began in Liverpool, where it blew away the critics, and quickly moved to Birmingham, where it has garnered legions of fans and an amazing following. In 2014, barrister Nisha Katona, a dedicated curry evangelist, had a nagging obsession to create a restaurant serving the kind of food Indian people eat at home and on the street. When Nisha started sharing her ideas for a new cookery book encapsulating this approach on her Mowgli Instagram channel during the spring 2020 lockdown, she was thrilled by the hugely positive response.

Turn the heat down to low and add the cumin, coriander, cardamom, cinnamon, ground fenugreek, turmeric, chilli powder, tomato purée, canned tomatoes and Greek-style yogurt, stir well and cook for a further 5 minutes. This adds a caramelised sweetness to the flesh that does much of the legwork in creating the massive flavours in this dish. This is the food that Nisha Katona, TV chef and creator and face of the Mowgli Indian restaurants, cooks at home – super speedy, made with easily sourced ingredients, and delivering big, bold flavours. Here, aubergine/eggplant replaces the traditional mutton and soaks up the flavours of the sauce just as beautifully. This is the food that real people want: tasty and nutritious meals they can whip up without fuss while juggling work and childcare in an often chaotic working-from-home environment.This is different in that the spices are put directly on the chicken to marinade, then it's the chickpea flour coating - so you can really taste the spices. Next, fill each pani puri a third of the way with the tamarind water, then add 1 teaspoon of the green chilli pickle and fill the rest of the way up with the cumin yogurt. When hot, add the panch phoron and fry until they start to crackle, then add the red chilli and aubergines and, turning the heat down to low, partially cover and cook for 10 minutes or until the aubergines are golden brown and tender. I used not the best quality fish (supermarket batch frozen) and I had to make sure it was defrosted drained and dried throughly.

These fries are sweet, you don’t need many, but there is something so wrong yet so right about them. The first Mowgli restaurant opened in Liverpool in late 2014, blowing away the critics and forming legions of fans. Try tempting snacks like the Fenugreek Kissed Fries, spice up your dinner with a whole host of delicious dahls, and indulge in desserts, drinks and cocktails from a Cardamom Custard Tart to a Sweet Delhi Diazepam.

This is why Indians do not make these at home and instead street vendors become dedicated puri makers, making nothing else.